Restaurant «BARBARIS» Almaty, Kazakhstan

To deny or confirm such fact was easy – we went to one of the best conceptual restaurants according to the rating of one of the online portals – Barbaris, which is in the center of Almaty. Remembering cases in Europe when without the preliminary booking it is not easy to get in, I made a call to Barbaris to find out whether there are any available tables and booking opportunities. Well, there were enough available places, so I could come at any time.
 
It was 19:30, and I am there. The first thing I noticed were heavy doors, and for the fay like I am, being on the high heels, it was not easy to move them. Immediately I was thinking about the doorman or security at entrance who could help the lady to come in. I guess the security man had different duties, and there was no doorman.
 
At the entrance I was offered to take off the coat, and then continue walking in. I have to admit that the atmosphere was very calm and relaxing. Most likely the moderate lighting and easy music made it. I was offered several options to sit at, but I was warned that in one of the parts of the restaurant people could smoke. In the beginning I did not feel the smoke and sat at smoking hall, which could tell about good ventilation of the place. Since lunches and dinners are a serious meal to me, I do not accept table with sofa and armchairs. I was offered the table with very low arm chairs, which later on I asked to change for classical dining chairs.

 
It was possible due to low occupancy of the place, since I was the second client in the right side of the restaurant. After several acts with replacing of chairs I met my friend whom we should have had the dinner with. I was immediately offered the main menu and spring offer from chef provided on digital device. 
 

Menu was rather short and not very informative. For example, there were no indicators of “Spicy”, “For vegetarians” choices, but was Kid’s menu. Seasonal menu was always interesting for me, since usually fresh products are served. However, having asked the waiter to tell about dishes, I heard only the names and very few details of the meal. The final point of presentation was the waiter’s offer to bring the Chef whose name is Kim San, who could perfectly tell what the dishes in Barbaris menu are.
 
While waiting for the chef, the strong cigarette smoke had reached us. We started asking questions whether the restaurant personnel knew about Kazakh legislation prohibiting smoking inside. “Yes, sure, we know, but we cannot make our guests stop smoking” – such very popular answer was given to us this time too. 
 
It is true: Barbaris guests are not common visitors, usually so called Almaty Bohemians. Though still to have a dinner at such a beautiful place which received the “Award for Excellence” according to one of the internet portals, with the tobacco smoke is not pleasant, and it could be easily said that the place does not observe the social responsibility. To smooth the edges, we were invited to another side of the hall with a statement “Here people do not smoke, and you will not feel it”.
 
While sitting at another table in “nonsmoking” hall, we met Kim San, restaurant’s chef. I was interested in chef’s dish – “Fish in sea salt”. Additionally we chose “Salad from young vegetables and mix salad”. There was given a choice – sea bass or dorado. Chef has advised – dorado. It seemed to be simple meals, but the simple ones reveal the mastership. My friend decided to try “Crème soup out of spinach and asparagus”, and “Pasts four cheese” (parmesan, pecorino, alpen blue, and camembert) with chicken fillet. Pasta type – spagetti, al dente (has been confirmed by the waiter). We decided not to take alcohol and took the water with lemon. In fact, while eating it is not recommended to drink plain water, it is preferable to add the lemon.
 
To avoid the waiting, we were offered the compliment from the restaurant – black, white and branny homemade bread and three scoops of butter with spices, herbs and plain one. It looked rather elegant. I have to admit that there was rather good choice of music in the restaurant, though the choice of videos on TV could be more modest. Live performances of American band Pussycat dolls in practically naked outfits did not add to the appetite.
 
“Here is your vegetable salad”. Well, there was enough of salad, mix salad which made the dish look large. Since I am healthy dining follower, I have noticed both tomatoes and cucumbers in the salad.

 
This combination is wrong, since cucumbers are alkaline products, and tomatoes are sour, and if to mix them, it gives rise to appearance of salt. Usually when you see the dish, you eat with “eyes” first, and then in real. Well, the served salad did not look appetizing, and plus I was concerned with tomatoes since they did not look fresh as they were named.
 

I was also disappointed by the way how it was cut and served. “A wonderful country house salad for shashlyk” – this name would fit better. My suspicions related to not fresh tomatoes were confirmed, since the tomato skin was falling off, and was too soft while eating, which was not eatable. Usually, the vegetable salad had to be added with some taste in form of sauce or at least olive oil and garlic, though here all salad taste was destroyed by the taste of overrippen tomato.
 
After the salad we were served with a crème soup. I really like such kind of soups for its consistency- rather solid one. Well, I guess Barbaris chef does not think so. The served soup tasted slushier than usual, you could taste so called creme only in the end. Everything could be more or less good, if there were no pine nuts which are rather risky decision, since nuts are likely to get a rancid taste. So, there were almost no crème taste after such nuts, plus there were caramelized onions and Brussels cabbage. Such a variety of products can sometimes be a bad decision – it can make the dish overtasted, what had actually happened.
 

 
While we were trying to reveal the mystery of green soup, there came my fish in sea salt. Dorado was really cooked under the dense lawyer of salt and was cut in front of guests.
 

 
Salt could be removed easily, and dorado fillet was on a plate with prepared sauce, lemon and greenery. Dorado could be appreciated by fans of healthy lifestyle and followers of low carbs diet, since it contains in average 1.8g of fat for 100g of fillet, and the tradition to bake the fish in salt came to us from Spain.
 
It tastes as solid white meat. However, regardless its density, it turned out to be rather tender and melting in mouth. Most likely, salt pressure let the fish bake well and save the healthy features. The sauce added to the strict baked taste the freshness and flavor due to one of the ingredients – wine vinegar. Very simple, light and healthy meal.
 

 
The last served menu choice was “Pasta four cheese” with chicken fillet pieces (strangely, there was no indication of chicken in menu or while repeating the order by the waiter). Well, again the chef took a risk and served rather suspicious mixture of not tender chicken and pasta. Spaghetti with four cheese sauce were rather dense, the added parmesan made the dish even more dry.
 
In fact, it was barely noticed that there were actually four types of cheese. There was more creamy taste which simple Emmental has. We did not feel the taste of both Camembert or alpen blue. In order to make it less dry, we had to drink lots of glasses with lemon water. Al dente boiling was good though.
 
If to try and remember all taste impressions which we got during the evening, I would give the first place to dorado in salt. All the rest, unfortunately, was not worth evaluating, since there was no chemistry in the mouth, and I would not visit Barbaris again. If we talk about value for money, the price for dorado of 8,800 tenge due to our geographical location was reasonable. There are no complaints about other dishes, prices were as it is in the restaurant.
 
In the end of the dining evening, we start to look at the interior and everything around. I noticed the waiter who was thoroughly putting the silverware at the next table. Very masterful, considering all rules, and most importantly – doing it with pleasure. And then I’ve got a thought, that when the kitchen does not worth the highest mark, and the freshness and seasoning of products in restaurant could be better, the one shall rely only on a great service and cozy atmosphere, though it is not always enough.